What is it? A stunning north African spot from former Kiln chef Meedu Saad.
Why we love it: Exec chef Meedu Saad has Egyptian heritage, and the restaurant’s name comes from the Chevrolet that he sat as a child while being driven around Ismailia, the port city where he spent his summers. At Impala, Saad reads north African cuisines through the adopted grammar of French and Thai kitchens. He wouldn’t be the first to filter a cuisine through Gallic techniques, but the latter, after seven years spent running nearby Kiln’s kitchen, is where it gets interesting. Mastering it is about controlling intensity, integrating funk and heat without pushing it over the edge, balancing smoke and freshness, and using bitterness to counteract umami. It’s Saad’s judicious control of heat and bitterness, and his willingness to push balance to its limits, that gives Impala’s fare its distinctive flavour profile.
Time Out tip: Order the sublime squid salad, velvety white bean dip and shefatalia, salt-forward round pork and offal patties wrapped in caul fat, soy-brushed and intensely unctuous but soothed by an ambient, Brian Eno-worthy hum of cinnamon.
Address: 13-14 Dean Street, Soho, W1D 3RS.
Opening hours: Daily 12-2.30pm & 5-10.30pm.
Expect to pay: Small plates £7-21, larger plates £36-68.
















































